LI IORDANOV DAN's profile

Textile Design: Working with Purchase Art

THE TECHNICAL SIDE OF TEXTILE DESIGN WORKING WITH PURCHASE ARTWORKS
Today's textile design profession is a specialized discipline that requires designers to possess both creative acumen and manufacturing expertise. As many textile designers working inside a global supply chain, the scope of their responsibilities has evolved from an artisanal, locally-focused craft to a highly focused, technology-driven field.While many textile designers enter the occupation with a strong desire to create original patterns, the day-to-day responsibilities, especially for those working as in-house designers for brands, often involve turning designs purchased from studios from their original artistic form to final production sample yardages. 

The purpose of this project is to present examples of developments I undertook during my tenure as an in-house textile designer. In this role, I spent approximately 65% of my time preserving the artistic integrity of the original artworks acquired from print studios globally, throughout the entire product development cycle. The main objective was to ensure each finalized artwork was well-prepared to be handed off to the mill. The other aspect involved problem solving in order to navigate the myriad practical constraints of the global supply chain, including limitations on printing size, color palettes, budgetary considerations, timelines, dye specifications, among others. 
One Single Repeat and Two Different Color Separations for Multiple Developments
For this purchased artwork, I created a single repeat with two different color separations. One was for woven development and the other one was for the knit. I always include tonal colors in my color separations and give the mill the freedom to further reduce the colors if necessary. From my years of working directly with mills, what I have learned is that the perfect production file is one with very clean artwork that also allows the mill the ability to further reduce the colors if needed. This is why separating tonal colors is very helpful.
⇡ (A) This is the image of the original purchase artwork.
⇡ (B) 2 colorways, offered for woven developments
⇡ (C) 1 colorway, offered for knit development
⇡ (C) Recolored for a knit development in a different season
Repeats, Recolor, Rework and Color Separations
During the development stage, I collaborated closely with the design team to modify purchased artworks, experimenting with different layouts, scales, styles, and colorways before settling on the final version for strike-off. This process was both creatively and technically demanding. At times, the final version remains similar to the original artwork, while at other times, it may require a completely new interpretation.
⇡ (D) For this particular purchased artwork, the original layout was spread-out and intended as a placement print. The revised version featured a non-directional, allover composition and adopted a brighter color palette.
⇡ (E) This purchased artwork necessitated extra effort to expand the edges of the motif that were cut off. I also decided to minimize its digital ikat effect, opting for a more hand-drawn appearance instead. I hand-painted several areas of the design and rescanned them to add the necessary texture. Furthermore, I introduced an ombre effect to the design, incorporating an entirely new color palette.
Color Matching
Color matching throughout all stages of product development and across all mediums is likely one of the most critical responsibilities of a textile designer. The ability to accurately translate colors from physical design to the computer screen, to paper, and onto various textiles—ensuring the final product reflects what was approved at the design sign-off—requires a textile designer to be both technically sound (e.g., a deep understanding of color profiles, dye formulas, lighting, and fabric knowledge) and visually sensitive. This meticulousness extends from artwork preparation and commenting on strike-offs, to evaluating samples, and collaborating with the merchandise team to ensure the online images are accurate.
⇡ (F) Sign-off design and product sample
⇡ (G) Sign-off design and AD campaign image
⇡ (H) Sign-off design and online product image
One Design, Multiple Layouts and Colorways
The print purchase budget varies depending on the season and sales performance. Sometimes, I would face a very limited budget for a particular season. In such scenarios, I need to maximize the use of one or two purchased artworks, creating multiple layouts and colorways to fulfill development requirements.
⇡ (I)  This design was adapted into two placement prints and one allover print with two colorways. Each placement print featured a distinct design and color. They were also created for two different products.
Rework the Purchase Artwork
Reworking a purchased artwork to meet development needs requires close collaboration among the design team, the textile designer, and the production (PD) team. Often, the need for extensive reworking arises from either the constraint issues brought up by PD or the design direction established by the design team. In this scenario, the role of the textile designer is to assist one or both teams in translating collective inputs into the actual realization of the design. When done successfully, the final design will retain all the elements that everyone loves in the original, while also accommodating any additional input from the team.
⇡ (J)  Reworked an allover print with light ground to a placement print with dark ground
⇡ (K)  Provided CAD flat to illustrate the placement of the print and ensure the final product had the correct print placement
Build A Print Story
Building a compelling print story for delivery is a creative endeavor. For each delivery, I always partnered closely with the design team to meet with print studios and selected prints to construct the story. Subsequently, I would work on those purchased prints, creating layouts and colorways to ensure the print story aligns with the concept and color palette.
⇡ (L) A 5-print story for spring delivery, comprising 2 multicolored allover prints, one hero print, one tonal texture, and one tonal animal print.
Engineer A Placement Print
To engineer a placement print is a problem-solving process. Due to fabric and cost constraints, large scale placement print is not something that mass production prefers. To achieve the desired results, I worked directly with mills to come up with solutions, and made adjustments to the artwork when necessary.
⇡ (M) For this large-scale placement print, I worked directly with the mill, tailoring the artwork's placement to its printing specifications. Initially, I turned the original design (left) into a placement design intended to encircle the skirt at the hem (middle). After discussions with the mill, I reworked the layout so that the design would be printed only on the center front panel (right).
⇡ (N) I prefer to create a very straightforward CAD for placement instructions, adhering to the principle 'what you see is what you get.' Sometimes, too much detail can be obstructive. At the end of the day, textile design is visual so I try to simplify the instruction by leveraging this aspect to ensure accurate execution by the mill.
Have A Contingency Plan
Product development is full of unexpected challenges, so I've developed the habit of always working ahead by coming up with contingency plans. The practice of creating companion designs (e.g., an allover version for a placement print) demonstrates strategic foresight and requires an upfront investment of time. However, in the face of the unexpected, these plans prove to be invaluable, often accelerating the process. Moreover, I firmly believe in treating the mills as partners by providing them with as many options as possible. This approach allows them to take ownership and respond effectively during those times when the unexpected occurs.
⇡ (O) I also created an allover version. For each placement art, I always create an allover companion design as a backup, just in case the initial development falls through.
In this project, my goal is to provide real-life examples demonstrating the process of adapting and reworking purchased artworks for textile design (I don't think it is a topic that was often discussed.) The focus was placed on the practical aspects of working with design and production teams, the mills, and the challenges of maintaining the artistic integrity of original artworks while problem-solving various production constraints. The day-to-day realities of working as a textile designer are practical and strategic, revolving around constant problem-solving, underscoring the complexity of translating the designs into producible textiles and the critical balance between creativity and technicality that defines the profession. I hope you find this project informative.​​​​​​​
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR ATTENTION
You can also connect with me on LinkedIn  www.linkedin.com/in/liiordanovdan​​​​​​​
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Textile Design: Working with Purchase Art
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Textile Design: Working with Purchase Art

This project focuses on the key technical aspects of the everyday responsibilities of a textile designer when working for a brand, primarily invo Read More

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